Many of you have asked us how to install the winter cover on your rigid inflatable boat. To help you clearly visualize all the steps, we have created this tutorial for you.
Here is also a summary with 3 photos showing the boat cover installed:
The perimeter of the cover is equipped with eyelets (for example, on a 5-meter rigid inflatable boat, there are about forty eyelets). These eyelets are used to thread a shock cord (marine-grade elastic cord) into which plastic hooks have been inserted to attach to the fender (also called rubbing strake) of the tube. These eyelets do not come into contact with the tube thanks to a flap that prevents the metal from scratching the PVC or Hypalon used to make the inflatable tubes.
At the front, the bow roller is generally accessible (see schematic photo below) except in cases of technical impossibility. Additionally, a long strap 25mm wide is sewn above the bow roller and allows the cover to be tensioned on the towing ring, or at a location you find more appropriate.
At the rear, a spider-type threading system (see schematic photo below) around the propeller or at a location you find more suitable allows the cover to be tensioned. Tension straps are added if the boat’s configuration permits.
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As you can see, the outboard motor is not covered.
If you wish to protect it, we manufacture protective covers for outboard motors available for purchase on our website. The choice depends on your motor’s power.
The cones of the tubes are also not covered.
Our goal is to deliver you a perfectly fitted boat tarp. For it to be properly tensioned, our design must be to the correct measurements and also allow for adjustment. If the front and rear are enclosed within the cover, there is no possibility for adjustment.
Since 90% of our cover sales are shipped, we cannot take the risk of a cover not fitting perfectly, so we do not include the fitting of the cones into the cover.
For customers who request it, we include fabric scraps to place additionally during winter storage.